Next time, October. Definitely.
OK, that presupposes that there will be a next time, and perhaps there will be. I will definitely be leaving a lot of Odessa, and really all of Ukraine, unexplored from this trip. And if I had a better grasp of the language, I’d probably be able to do more.
But the second limiting thing to my enjoyment – rapturous enjoyment, that is, as opposed to the wow enjoyment I’m getting now – is the heat. It’s been in the upper 80s and low 90s the past couple days, and the forecast is for similar weather through next week. I don’t like it at home when I’m hot; throw me into a foreign city, with a poor understanding of the language and culture, and have me walking around for hours in the heat… well, let’s just say it can dampen one’s appreciation somewhat.
Despite that, I was out again today, doing some more exploring and snapping some pictures (that I’ll get up later). I revisited some of my haunts from yesterday (except for the City Park, which I must get some pictures of), and expanded out a little further in most directions. Had a few more interactions with the locals (including another street vendor, but no change this time), and I did make it down to the Black Sea (although there wasn’t a lot of shade there, so I didn’t stick around for too long).
I think my time in City Park yesterday really spoiled me for the other parks I’ve come across. City Park is beautiful – very green, lots of tree, a gazebo/pavilion, a water feature; like I said, I must get some pictures. Today I spent some time at Sobornaya Square and Schevchenko Park, and they were not even in the same league as City Park. Which is a pity; a little more care and both places could be magical.
Sobornaya Square – apart from the dry grass – had a classic European city square feel to it. At least I thought so. There were assorted artists selling their works in front of a large church, and the walkways around and within the park had vendors will all sorts of products. There was even a little petting zoo and some motorized carts that could be rented for kids.
Schevchenko Park is a large park right by the Black Sea. Lots of trees, but still rather dry and dusty. (There’s a new stadium being constructed there, and I’m sure that didn’t help with the dust.) There are walkways all through the park, but the two most travelled ones are a memorial promenade that leads to the Tomb of the Unknown Sailor monument, and the outer path that shadows the coastline. Lots of people, including me, were on this outer path, and where the trees and shrubbery permit, there are some good views of the Odessa seaport and the Black Sea.
You know my previous comment about fitting in and not wishing to stand out as a tourist? I wonder if I’m doing that a little too well. Granted it’s nice not being a mark for scams or cons, but I can’t help but think that it would be cool to tell someone “yah Americaneets” (“I am an American”), and then we help each other with our respective languages. Hmmm, maybe I’d be more approachable if I wasn’t wearing sunglasses – it seems that most men over here don’t (although it’s fairly common for the women). I recall reading that Ukrainians don’t really trust people wearing sunglasses, because you can’t see their eyes. (Also, for older people, it’s apparently reminiscent of KGB agents.) Oh well, tomorrow is another day…
And by the way, I saw a lot more bicycles today than yesterday. You’d think bicycles would be more popular in a city like Odessa, but they are actually rather few and far between. I guess between cars, buses, trolleys and one’s feet, people figure there are already enough transportation options.
Tomorrow, I’d better try to get to the Potemkin Steps, or else I’ll miss out on one of the most internationally well-known landmarks of Odessa.